Currently, the majority of textile industry-scale recycling process exist solely for the mechanical recycling of cotton pre and post-consumer waste. However, mechanical and chemical innovations are coming up for blended compositions and to assure the quality of recycled fiber.

Abdul Wadud, CEO & Management Consultant, TRANSFORM
Almost 150 million metric tons of clothes and shoes are sold every year worldwide and it is growing with the increase of population. These huge consumption is negatively impacting environmental and social footprint.

If we look at the history and the future trend of the fashion industry and the focus of type of fiber consumption, we can broadly divide into three clear eras: -

Table: Focus fiber of fashion industry in a different era.
Time	Focus Fiber
Before 1990	The era of Natural and man-made fiber
From 1990-2020	The era of Sustainable fiber
2020 & beyond	The era of Circular Economy focusing on reuse of clothing & recycling of Pre & Post Consumer Waste + Sustainable Fiber – Animal Fiber

Global Fashion Agenda says, “73% of the world’s clothing eventually ends in a landfill, of which less than 15% is collected to recycle.” Under 1% of this regenerated into new clothing, according to research undertaken by Ellen MacArthur Foundation.
The circular economy is a hot topic at the moment and it is the demand of time as over-population and over-consumption have reached a level that demands a new system of fiber production. Current fiber system alone is not really sustainable, as a world needs more food and urbanization, we must focus to “Re-use” and “Re-cycle” on a larger scale which is basically “Circular Economy”.

The challenge in the retailer side is creating growing consumer demand for the “Circular Economy” and the challenge to the recyclers of pre and post-consumer side is segregation of different types of fiber while recycling those into the fiber.

focusing on “Re-use” and “Re-cycle” on a larger scale is basically “Circular Economy.”

It is better not to do or try it alone. There are two mentors worldwide who can help in recycling post-consumer waste, namely: -

• The Copenhagen Fashion Summit and



• The Ellen MacArthur Foundation

At a first step, re-use production leftovers. In the second step, re-cycle Pre-consumer waste. There are two methods of re-cycling pre-consumer waste: -

1. Mechanical recycling and



2. Chemical recycling

Currently, the majority of industry-scale recycling process exist solely for the mechanical recycling of cotton pre and post-consumer waste. However, mechanical and chemical innovations are coming up for blended compositions and to assure the quality of recycled fiber. We have to go a long way to achieve a fully closed-loop fashion industry and we need a coordinated effort from all side in order to take it forward.


Noble fibers such as cashmere, mohair, and wool are natural and renewable resources with low impact on the environment. A number of key retailers take a stance against using animal-derived fibers and with Topshop, H& M and Marks & Spencer banning the use of mohair asos.com removing mohair, silk, and cashmere from production by 2019, things are set to change.
The 2020 Circular Fashion System Commitment asks brands to commit to the increased collection and recycling of garments, plus an increase in recycling Post-consumer textile fibers. So far 93 companies, representing 207 brands and 12% of the global fashion market have signed up.
We wish innovative solutions would come forward to improve the environmental and social footprint and the world in the future would be a better place to live.
About the author:
Abdul Wadud, CEO & Management Consultant, Transform. He did his post graduation from DU. He's a prominent fiber and cotton specialist. Also a regular contributor of Textile Today.